Replacing the Starter Motor and Solenoid

  1. Disconnect the battery earth lead.
  2. Unzip the rear window, undo the 5 clips that hold the rear edge of the soft-top in place, and raise the rear edge of the soft-top, being careful not to crease the rear window.
  3. Using a length of string or suitable alternative, loop it around the roof to hold it out of the way.
  4. Remove the rear parcel shelf cover and heat resistent mat.
  5. Undo the 11 bolts around the engine access cover and remove the cover.
  6. Open the boot and remove the engine compartment access panel (or grill ).
  7. Loosen the wheel nuts on the rear left hand or 'near' side wheel, raise the car, and support the car on axle stands.
  8. Remove the left hand side wheel.
  9. Remove the two bolts that hold the evaporation cannister in place. ( This is the outer part of the air filter box, into which the air is initially drawn). Push the cannister slightly forward towards the front of the car. It wont move that far, but it will be enough to ive you access to the two bolts holding the startet in place. Click to enlarge




  10. Undo the 4 clips that hold the top cover of the air filter.
  11. Remove the circlip that clamps the end of the air hose to the throttle body, and remove the air filter cover and the hose.
  12. Looking down through the boot, you should see a tie-wrap holding the starter cables against the starter solenoid. Cut the tie-wrap and remove.
  13. Undo the nut on the solenoid that clamps the 2 main power cables and push cables aside.
  14. Pull off the Lucar cable connector and push cable aside.
  15. Looking through the wheel arch and the gap between the evaporation cannister and the suspension damper, you should be able to see the heads of the two bolts that secure the starter to the engine. ( photos show holes with bolts removed ) Click to enlarge Click to enlarge




  16. The amount of free space to work in is very limited, and you will find undoing these two bolts much easier by working through this gap with a long-reach socket set extension/s. They need to reach about 400 mm, maybe a bit more dependant on the type of set you have.
  17. Undo the lower bolt first. Both bolts have retaining nuts, so you will need a suitabel spanner as well.
  18. The starter is relatively heavy and will start to lean away from the engine body as soon as you start to undo the top bolt. If you place a small piece of wood under the outer edge of the starter motor, to stop it tilting, before you undo the bolt, you'll find removing the top bolt much easier. Click to enlarge




  19. There is a thin metal flywheel closing plate on the rear face of the engine mounting bracket. Mine stayed in place, but as there appears to be nothing else holding it in place, it may fall away. Click to enlarge




  20. Although there does not look to be enough room, it is possible to extract the starter motor up though the engine bay, twisting it around to pass all the cables etc, one at a time.

    Click to enlarge




    Refitting:
  21. Check the ends of the electrical connections, and ensure they are clean and free from corrosion.
  22. Feed the replacement starter motor, pinion end first, down through the engine compartment, locate into engine block, and support the outer end on a small piece of wood. Click to enlarge




  23. Insert the top bolt, ensuring that the bolt passes through the flywheel closing plate. Click to enlarge




  24. Using a suitable spanner (ring spanner if available) to hold the nut in place, loosely tighten the top bolt. Click to enlarge




  25. Repeat for the lower bolt.
  26. Tighten up both bolts, since you will need use a socket spanner on the bolt and another spanner on the nuts. This can be quite difficult in the confined space, but you should find that once the bolts and nuts start to tighten up, you will only need to use the socket. Torque both bolts to 80 Nm.
  27. Push on the Lucar connector.
  28. Refit the 2 main cables, the washer, spring washer and nut, ensuring that both cables are not over stressed. Apply a coating of grease over the connectors to prevent corrosion.
  29. Using a tie-wrap, fasten the cables to the soleboid. Click to enlarge




  30. Check the air filter itself. - this may a good time to replace it. Remove any build of dust / debris from the bottom of the air filter box.
  31. Refit the top of the air filter box, and fasten the 4 clips.
  32. Refit the air hose to the filter body and tighten up the retaining clip.
  33. Refit the two bolts that hold the evaporation cannister
  34. Fit road wheel and tighten wheel nuts, and drop the car.
  35. Check wheel nuts to correct torque.