Fuel Pump Connector Failure


After starting and stopping several times one morning, the car suddenly failed to start again. Turning the ignition would turn the engine over, it would briefly fire and then cut out. After several attempts it became obvious there was no sound of the fuel pump priming the system - something you can normally hear as you turn the ignition on without turning the key the full way to the 'start' position. A quick check of the relevant fuse showed it had not blown.

The pump is sited on top of the fuel tank and the only way to get to it is to remove the inspection plate under the 'parcel shelf'.

First release the front screen hood catches, don't lower the hood, undo the rear screen, and reach in to release the five clamps that hold the rear of the hood to the body. Fold the rear of the hood forward and loosely tie it in place with string to keep the rear hood up and out of the way.

Remove the 'parcel shelf' mat cover and the thermal carpet from underneath it.

Click to enlarge It is then possible to see the circular fuel pump inspection cover. Remove the 4 screws and then the cover, noting the arrow indicating its orientation when you come to refit it.


Click to enlarge Click to enlarge Click to enlarge The problem with mine was obvious once the electrical connector plug was removed. The pin for the power connection was burnt, probably due to it not being too good a fit to the mating connector and the fact that its surface area is relatively small for the amount of current it carries.

Dis-connecting and then re-connecting the connector several times resulted in a good connection, though the problem was bound to re-occur, and it did! Checking with Mike Satur, this is apparently not an uncommon problem. Unfortunately, the supply cable at this point is part of the main loom, so it is not too easy to replace.

OPTIONS FOR REPLACEMENT:

  1. The connectors themselves were originally supplied from AMP, now Tyco Electronics. A good place to start your search for information for many of the MGF's connectors is at http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com

    Click to enlarge This particular AMP-ECONOSEAL-J Mark II+ Connector is made up of several pieces. The specific part numbers are......

    Item 1AMP 344270-1 4 WAY RECEPTACLE HOUSING
    Item 2AMP 345808-1 0.20 to 0.5mm square wire RECEPTACLE
    Item 3AMP 345806-1 0.75 to 2.0mm square wire RECEPTACLE
    Item 4AMP 347874-1 CABLE SEAL 0.50 to 1.5mm square wire - GREEN
    Item 5AMP 347875-1 CABLE SEAL 0.75 to 2.0mm square wire - YELLOW
    Item 6AMP 345258-1 ANTI-BACKOUT

    An Application Document 114-8040 can also be downloaded from Tyco's web site.

    The major problem with fitting these connectors is that the pins/receptacles are meant to be crimped, for which you require a specific crimp tool. They can of course be soldered - just be careful not to allow excessive solder to run down into the connector itself.

  2. The second option is to find an old loom, with a good connector on it - chop it off and splice it into your car. The complete car loom is not in one single piece, but separate looms for different body areas. Whilst the fuel pump connector is on one, the same type of connector is used on the engine bay loom and is used to connect to the Heated Oxygen Sensor

    Click to enlarge Whilst I explored and acquired new connector parts, I also was lucky that somebody gave me an old engine bay loom. So I spliced in the connector from Heated Oxygen Sensor. Hopefully that's the end of the story !